Cardmaking 101: Send Off

Did you miss a previous post in this series:
Introduction
Supplies
Card Basics
Digi Images
Embellishment

Send off: 

How to package and ship your cards

We've made it!  All the way to the end! And what's more final in card making than sending your card off to it's recipient?   Unfortunately, I can't help you in filling out your cards (I still struggle with what to say!), but in this post, I will be describing different methods of packaging and shipping your cards.  I do have to note, all of the rates and "rules" that I will be mentioning here are for the US Postal Service.  I do not have experience mailing anything through any other country's mail service, however, the packaging of the cards will be pretty similar - you will just have local postal regulations/rates to deal with as well.  Also, I'm using commonly available envelopes, rather than custom made envelopes.  A custom envelope could potentially change the postage rate.   

In the Card Basics post (link at top of this post), I described different card sizes.  One of which was the A2

card.   This particular card is the size I use for a good portion of my "Get Well", "Sympathy", and Christmas cards.  The reason for this is that they are the easiest and cheapest to mail.  I tend to use the "social envelopes" (shown below) to send these cards.  The envelope is larger than the card, but this allows for some dimension.  This is NOT the way to ship if you will be using dimensional flowers, but a few [well adhered] pearls or buttons, and paper layers are okay. 

A wonderful thing about sending a card in the social envelopes, is that it fits into the regulations for a "first class letter" - as long as it is less than 1/2" thick and under 2 ounces.  Which means that this method is the CHEAPEST way to send a card.  The rate for this is going to vary a bit, but is fairly easy to figure.  You will, of course, be paying the regular first class letter rate ($0.46 at the time of this post), you will likely ALSO have to pay for the card to be non-machinable (an extra $0.20) because of any embellishments, and to keep the card from being bent in a sorting machine.  Then the weight can add again ($0.20 if the card is between 1-2 ounces: I've only ever had one card that didn't need the extra postage for weight).  USPS DOES sell $0.20 stamps, as well as selling $0.66 and $0.86 cent stamps - so you do have the option of purchasing the stamps and avoiding lines at the post office.  

The larger - square - cards can be shipped a couple of ways.  Please keep in mind that a square envelope - even if your card is completely flat and able to bend - is considered non-machinable and will require extra postage.  For cards without any super dimensional embellishment, I like to use 6"x9" manila envelopes (a "flat" envelope is shown in the photo, but there are also padded envelopes at this size).   If you look online, or at a local shipping store, you may find decor envelopes that you could use as well.   

While you are able to fairly easily determine the postage for an A2 size card, the larger cards will have to be taken into the post office to be weighed for a postage rate.  The heaviest that a "letter" can be is 3.5 oz, and by the time you add layers of  paper and embellishments to a 5.5" or larger card, you are reaching the borderline of that weight.  The 6"x9" envelope is going to typically cost less than $3 to mail (most of mine have been in the $1.20 - $1.90 range based on weight and dimension), but, again, this is based on weight, so lots of layers and lots of heavy embellishments can change that cost.  

When it comes to cards with LOTS of dimension, you want to protect those items a little further.  A small box - either custom made, or premade - will protect flowers and other dimensional items from being crushed, bent, or torn.  (If you can find them, small personal size pizza boxes without the logos are great for shipping, because they do not need additional wrapping on the outside - just tape, address, and mail.)  With a custom box made from cardstock, you will need to use a padded envelope for a bit more protection.   The shipping cost for this will, again, be a few dollars (between $3-$5 depending on weight).  Typically - because of the shipping cost - this style of card is one that I will mail only for special occasions, or if I will include the card inside a package of other things that I planned to send. 

The card inside this box will be revealed on Monday!  

One thing to keep in mind when mailing - ANYTHING really - is that you want the address to be very visible.  If you use a patterned paper to custom make an envelope, or use a bunch of stickers to decorate a purchased envelope, make sure that the decoration does not compete with the address for focus.  Postal employees need to be able to QUICKLY find the address, and CLEARLY read it, in order for your beautiful card to be delivered.  If you are reusing a box, make sure any numbers, addresses, and bar codes that are not related to the boxes destination are marked out.  It may not look "pretty" but it will get delivered!  And finally - make sure that the address is attached WELL!  If you are using a label, make sure it is adhered completely.  If you are taping on a piece of paper - tape all of the edges well, and contemplate writing the delivery address on the box underneath.  If for any reason your address gets removed, the package can still be delivered.    

* * * * * * * * * * * 

So, we've gone from miscellaneous supplies, to a finished and mailed card.  It's been loads of fun writing this series.   I hope that if you had never made a card before, you feel a bit more confident in trying.   If you've been making cards for a while, I hope you've found something new, or a different perspective on an old way of doing things.  

Have fun, and good luck!  

Cardmaking 101: Embellish It

Did you miss a previous post in this series:
Introduction
Supplies
Card Basics
Digi Images

Embellish It:

Dressing up your card with fun add ons!

em·bel·lish·ment  (m-blsh-mnt) n.

1. an ornament or decoration.

2. an elaborative addition, as to a statement.

3. the act of decorating something (in the hope of making it more attractive)

Embellishment on your cards is where your style truly shines in card making!  For those who prefer clean & simple (CAS) styles, the one or two carefully chosen decorations will share the spotlight with your main image.  For those who like to load up their cards with fun things, choosing the coordinating elements is a joy.  

Clean & Simple - using patterned paper

 There are so many types of embellishments out there, and I wish there were a formula I could give you (1 sentiment + 3 gems + 5 flowers = perfectly embellished card!) but really, there is no formula.  If you take a moment to search handmade cards on google or Pinterest you will see that cards can be embellished many, MANY, ways!  Embellishment is what makes your cards uniquely yours - which is why this post will be mostly dedicated to some simple concepts, that will hopefully help you understand how embellishment can affect the final view of your card.    

a bit more embellishment

In the Card Basics post, I touched briefly on design elements - such as balance.  I want to mention this again, because when embellishing your cards, balance is a definite concern.  Particularly for those CAS cards. If you are starting with a slightly unbalanced sketch, this is the point that you can add some balance to your card by where you place your embellishment.  

Think of your card being balanced on a triangle like shown.  If your embellishment and layout are all to the right hand side of the card, your card will fall to the right.  The same if everything is to the left.  A balanced card, will remain centered on that triangle.  There is one "weird" element though.  White space (unembellished space) has a visual weight to it as well.  However, when using white space, keep in mind that it needs to be uninterrupted, and equal to, or greater, than the elements that it is balancing.  Without that equality, it tends to look more like you missed decorating a spot.  

Layering your embellishments will help to add some interest.  Ideally, you will be coming into this step of your card making, with your image unadhered to your card.  So you can add elements that your image will "sit" on top of.  Typically, when I make a card, I tend to go in this order: 

1. Fabric layers: Lace, ribbon, stitching, cheesecloth or tulle (if this is not adhered behind a paper layer).
2. Hard set layers: Buttons stitched on, corners attached, gem flourishes added (if they will be under the image, if they are over the image, they are added after the image is placed).
3. Image/sentiment layers: Any paper pieces that will poke out from under the image added, plus the image is adhered down, and the sentiment is placed.  
4. Flowers layer: flowers, leaves, vines and any floral filler is added
5. Fill-in layer: gems or any other small filler elements added at this point.  

Regardless of what order you add things in, be sure to do a dry run with your embellishments before actually adhering them to the card.  Trust me, it sucks to realize AFTER you've glued down something that you've covered a portion of the paper that you wanted exposed, or that the element is just not QUITE proportionate.  

"Spot", "fill-in", what am I talking about?  Well, the easy way to understand is to think of your card being divided into sections.  

When you embellish your cards, you are using this grid to help you place items.  If you like CAS cards, you will want at least 4-5 sections of the square card, and 3-4 sections of the rectangular card to be empty of any decoration.  If you prefer more embellished cards, you will want each section to be [half or more] filled with at LEAST one element. (And, yes, your image and sentiment count as "filling" a section.)

The final thing to discuss with card embellishment, is your glue of choice.  Be sure you have a variety of glues to fit the elements you intend to work with.  I love my hot glue gun because it's an immediate bond and lasts, but it's not the best for adhering metal.  For that, I use Glossy Accents or E6000 (Glossy Accents IS shiny, so if it will show at ALL keep that in mind).  Learn your dry times, so you don't wind up with elements that slide when you've picked a card up to early.   And, if you use a hot glue gun, give your card a once over with your heat tool (or a hot air hairdryer) to "melt" those nasty little strings of glue away.  

Keep in mind, card embellishments can become expensive.  But they don't have to be!  There are numerous tutorials out there that can teach you how to make your own flowers, and buttons, as well as how to color gemstones to match your projects.  YouTube and Pinterest - as well as other crafters - are great resources for inexpensive and effective tools and techniques.  

Next week we will be discussing the Send Off: How to Package and ship your cards. 

Cardmaking 101: Digi Images

Did you miss a previous post in this series:
Introduction
Supplies
Card Basics

Digi Images:

Finding, storing, and working with digital images

It's the image post, but it's all text?  This particular post is full of answers to questions I frequently get asked, a little ranting, and a lot of tips for working with images.  

Finding/Staying up to date: 

Finding digi images seems easy, right?  Just go to Google and type in "digital images" or "digi stamps" and dozens show up.  But it's not all that simple.  Because Google keeps a digital record of everything uploaded.  So that super cute image that you click on could be a broken link, could be years out of date, or the image itself  could be stolen. 

One of the first things I would recommend to find digis, is to follow a listing site that seeks out free digis on a daily or weekly basis.  Now, keep iin mind, that multiple listing sites will give you the best coverage.  However, the people who put together the links are HUMAN - there are time constraints, and phrasing of posts that can change their ability to find and recognize the available digis.  Even those sites that use a bot to seek out freebies may miss out on something if the artist changes the phrasing or file names that the bot is seeking.  Use these "seeking" sites as a guide to finding your favorite and/or new artists, but be sure to follow or subscribe to those artists as well so that you don't miss anything because of a time constraint or human error.   

Also, look at the artists that your favorite card makers frequently use - particularly on their NON-DT cards. DT (design team) cards are a GREAT source of inspiration for design, coloring, and embellishment; however, the card maker was likely given the stamp on that card for use on that card by a sponsor.  Which does not mean that the artist of that stamp isn't an amazing artist - they just might not be "typical" of the style that cardmaker uses.  The stamps that card makers tend to gravitate towards for their own non-DT cards, tend to be by artists that more closely fit their style of cardmaking.  If you are following a particular cardmaker, I tend to think that it is because you like some part of their style, and this will help you find images that suit that.  

There is one site in particular that I have a real love/hate relationship with for finding stamps, and that is Pinterest.   Pinterest can be a great resource if used properly.  It can also cause you some nightmares if not.  The big problem comes from those saving "free" stamps that they have found on Pinterest without visiting the site that the stamp came from.  When I see a stamp on my Pinterest dash that has no watermark, or is "uploaded by user" rather than linked from a site, it is suspect to me, and I will not save or use that stamp.    When you do so, you are actually in violation of copyright law.

Copyright - what you should know: 

The artists who are supplying you with digis are sharing their own COPYRIGHTED work with you.  When you save images from Pinterest, particularly those "uploaded by user", you have no terms of use to reference in the use of your stamp.  I have seen hundreds of Magnolia stamps on Pinterest that people have stamped and scanned to upload,  I've seen digi artists tearing their hair out at the "Pinterest problem" because people are loading images that are being sold by the artist (with the watermarks removed) or pinning things in a way that takes the artist's traffic and exposure away, not to mention credit for their work. 

Now, I've heard the argument from many that once you upload something to the Internet, you have no control over the use of that creation.  Ummm.... I call BULL****.  Go try to post the [ripped-from-CBS] video of the season finale of "The Big Bang Theory" to YouTube and see what it gets you.  They uploaded the show to the Internet, but that doesn't make it free-use, and while a certain amount of fan use is encouraged to bring in new viewers, there is still a LIMIT on that use.   Just because a digi artist doesn't have an entire corporation of lawyers behind them, doesn't mean that their copyright is less important or deserves any less respect.  READ the terms of use that the artist took time to write.  CREDIT the artist with their work.  And if you want to "pin", pin a watermarked digi, colored version, or even the blog header.  Most artists try to provide you with something that is "pinnable" that still fits within their copyright.    

If you plan on selling your cards, be sure to look for an "angel policy" from the artist of the stamps.  If you are buying some stamps that aren't allowed to be sold on a finished card, you may want to give them their own category when saving the images so they aren't mistakenly used.  A good portion of artists will allow for you to use their images in one of a kind creations for resale, but be sure to check before posting your cards on Etsy or any other selling site!  

Finally, keep a copy of the Terms of Use (even just a screenshot from the artist's site) saved with your stamps.  Most purchased stamps come with a TOU in the file, or have the TOU located at a plainly marked link on the site.  This is for YOUR protection as well.  This will give you something to reference to make sure that you stay within the bounds of that copyright.  

Say Thanks: 

Obviously, if you are paying for an image, you do not have to go out of your way to thank the artist for their work (though a bit of appreciation on a blog post can make their day!).  The thanks they get comes in a dollars-and-cents form.  However, when you gather free stamps/sentiments, you should take a moment to say thank you to the artist.  Speaking as someone who creates digis, I know that even a simple free sentiment can take almost half an hour of my time just to create, package, and post.   Yet, it takes about 90 seconds for a person to pop onto my site, download, and close the window.  If you consider there are about 200 downloads (the page view can be double or triple this number) for that particular freebie, than that artist put in 9 seconds of their time to create that freebie for EACH download.  Those who download can (and SHOULD!) easily take 9 seconds to type a quick "Thank you" before closing the window.  It's polite, and it encourages artists to continue to create freebies for you.  

How to store/label images: 

There are a few schools of thought to storing the digital files of images.  I, personally, lean towards storing images in files marked by artist name (because I know the artist's style, which helps me choose an image to create with), while other people may prefer to store images by category of use - for instance: "birthday", "Christmas", and "love".  Regardless, you should have a folder, or series of subfolders under an "TOU" folder, labeled with the artists name and containing the TOU and something (even a notepad file) with the artist's website listed on it.  This will make crediting the artist much faster and easier than having to google for hours trying to find the image again to link to it.  You do have to find the system that works for you in terms of organizing.  And you can, obviously, always create a folder with the artists name and multiple subcategories below that.  

There are two "typical" ways to download images.  There is the right-click to save option, or an actual download link.  When you right click to save, you will get an option to choose the folder you wish to save your image into.  This makes it a bit easier to direct your images into the correct folder from the start.  The download link option (either at the site or off site) will automatically download into a "download" folder on your computer, and from there you may have to unzip (most computers do this automatically anymore) to get to the actual files.  A download link is typically used when you are getting multiple files in the single download.  

One thing that will make your digital file storage easier, is to have your download folder open while you are gathering images.  When you download an image, take a moment to check if the artist has included their name, website name, or some other identifying piece of info in the file name.  If the file name is just "Fairy Wishes", go ahead and add the artist name to the file BEFORE navigating away from the site.  You can do this by right-clicking on the image in your download file, and selecting "Rename".  DO NOT DELETE THE EXISTING FILE NAME!  Move your cursor to the front or back of the file name and add the artist name.  For instance "FP3 Fairy Wishes" or "Fairy Wishes FP3".  Even if you keep your digital images in file by artist, this will help you keep track of them if your files ever get messed up.

I also strongly recommend having a back up system for your digital images.  Finding and gathering images takes a lot of time, and can take quite a bit of money.  Invest in a USB zip drive, or an external hard drive to keep your images backed up.  This way if something ever happens to your computer, you still have all of those images that may or may not be available again.  Back up about once a week, more frequently if you are actively seeking out multiple images each day.  

PNG vs. JPEG:

There's generally some confusion from people who don't work much with images over the difference between PNG images and JPEG images.  The simple answer is this.  JPEG is just like a photograph.  It's got a background.  If you want to layer that image over a different background before printing, you have to "cut" it out.  PNG images, on the other hand, have a transparent background.  You can layer a PNG image over a digital paper without having to "trim" any excess away.  Otherwise there is no difference in the file types.  Most artists simply provide both because most people are more comfortable working with JPEGs, while those who have worked with images, and work with digital papers, or layering stamps prior to printing, prefer the PNG.  

Resizing tutorials: 

How to resize images in Paint

How to resize images in Microsoft Word

I use a PC, and you can also print multiple images using the built in "print pictures" option (iPhoto on Mac I believe).  All you do is open the folder that contains the images you want to print, and hold the CTRL key down while left-clicking on the images.  Once all of the images are selected, right-click and select print.  You can choose from a set of "standard" photo sizes.  (Be sure to deselect the box marked "Fit picture to frame".  You may get some gray bars, but the image won't be distorted or cut off.)  The downsides to using this option are that the images on a single sheet will all be one size, and that you may not have the white space surrounding the image to cut out a frame or large shape.  This does work well for those images you plan to fussy cut however.  

Printing tips: 

First things first, go and find your printer's manual, your technophile spouse/significant other, or your kids, and learn how to print using BLACK INK ONLY!  If you do not set your printer to print ONLY from the black ink cartridge (which is MUCH cheaper to replace in most instances) it will pull ink from the color cartridges to create any grays or variation of black.  Learning how to set this will save you $$$ when you are printing line drawing stamps to color! 

Also, when you print, try to print a FULL page of images at a time (yes, with space for framing, etc.).  This will save on paper scraps that get set aside, and allow you to have images ready to color when you are ready.  Once printed just cut the images apart and store the image you aren't ready to use yet.  If you save the printed images in a coupon organizer,  you can save them by category for quick and easy access at a later time!  

Most of us have inkjet printers.  Ideally, to print digi images that will be colored, a laser printer would be used, but we have to use what we have.  So how do you get the ink to stick?  There are a few options.  Of all, the best is time.  If you print multiple images (filling a sheet) and let those images "sit" for a few days, you will be much less likely to smudge the black outlines as you color.  Other options include using hairspray or fixatif on an image that has rested for at least 20 minutes.  A fine mist of these is sprayed over the image and then dried to seal the printer ink.  (Always spray in a well-ventilated room, or outside, for safety.)  Even with fixatif you still have to be careful not to color directly on the lines.  For best results, print multiple images that will be able to "rest" for a day or two prior to coloring.  

I hope that this text-heavy post helped you to understand a bit more about the digital images used in cardmaking!  

Next week will be all about Embellish It: Dressing up your card with fun add ons!

For those who have been making cards for a while:  How do you store your digi images?  What programs do you use to print them?

Cardmaking 101:Intermission

Calling a time-out for this week on the Cardmaking 101 posts.  Due to the US Holiday this past weekend, I was traveling and not able to devote the neccessary time to the post that would be running this week.  CM101 posts will return to normal next week!

Thanks for understanding!

Be sure to check out my giveaway! Link is thataway somewhere ----------->

Cardmaking 101: Card Basics

Did you miss a previous post in this series:
Introduction
Supplies

Card Basics: 

Making, layering, and laying out the card

Now that you have a few supplies gathered together - it's on to actually creating the card!  

Making a card base: 

The first thing you need for your card is a base.  You always have the option of buying premade card bases (and their coordinating envelopes), however, even if you do that, you should be aware of how to create your own card base from cardstock for those times that you need a specific color or size.  As you become more involved in card making, you'll be able to find fancy folds and intricate shapes that you can make your cards into, however, let's begin with a few of the "standard" sizes.  

There are two shapes (three sizes) that are standard for homemade card bases.  Each card base, once cut, can be opened like a book (fold at the left) or like a notepad (fold at the top).  Depending on what size of cardstock you prefer to keep in your stash, you may prefer one size over others.  (There are also shipping considerations - which will be addressed in a later post in this series.)

The A2 card size has a "face" the size of 1/4 of a sheet of letter size paper.  This is the size that you typically find premade invitations or thank you notes in stores.  You can create 2 A2 card bases from one sheet of 8.5"x 11" piece of cardstock. 

You can also cut on the shorter side of paper at 4.25", and fold at 5.5". 

Square cards are very popular among  many card makers.  Depending on what size of cardstock you are beginning with, you can create two sizes of square card bases.  (You also always have the choice of cutting a smaller square if you prefer.)

The 5.5" Square card size (cut from an 8.5"x11" piece of cardstock), will leave a 3" remnant when cut.  This remnant can be saved to use as matting for additional layers, borders, tags, and other projects.  

The 6" square size (cut from a sheet of 12"x12" cardstock), will also give you 2 card bases from one sheet of card stock, with no remnant left over.  

Once you've decided on a card base size, you need to cut and fold your card base.  Let's pull out our cardstock, paper trimmer, and bone folder and make a card.  

For this particular card, I want a 5.5" x 5.5" black card base.  My cardstock in this case is 8.5" x 11".   

I'm going to line up my cardstock with the 5.5" mark on my paper trimmer.  I have marked this particular increment because I use it over and over again.  

Once lined up (along the top edge of the trimmer so that the cut is straight), I will make my cut.

After making my cut, I'm left with two pieces of cardstock.  One is 5.5" x 11", and one that is 3" x 11".  

My next step is to score my card base.  If you have a scoreboard, you can use that; I chose to show how you can also use your paper trimmer for this step.  I've moved my cutting blade away from my cardstock, however, you can remove the blade entirely for this step. I turned the 5.5" x 11" piece so the long side is at the top of the paper trimmer.  For this particular cardstock, there is no difference in the front or back, however, if you are using a patterned cardstock, your "face" or the pattern you want on the front of the card should be what you see.

Once again, using the 5.5" increment I lined up the cardstock at the top of the trimmer.  Using my bone folder, I will score a line down the center of my card base.  Place the point of the bone folder in the groove, ABOVE your cardstock, and using light pressure pull down, on to your cardstock.  You can slightly increase the pressure once you are on the cardstock, then reduce it again before dragging the tip of the bone folder off the bottom edge.  This will reduce the chances of tearing the cardstock on the edges as you score.  

Once scored, the cardstock will be folded.  Fold your card so the "valley" created is the top of the fold, and the "mountain" is inside the card.   I've used the edge of the bone folder to sharpen that crease.

And that's how easy it is to create a basic card base!  

Layering/Laying out the Card: 

Layers give your card interest and dimension.   Even though most cardmakers add an image or some embellishment to their cards, the layers behind the image and the embellishment are the foundation of the design and provide pattern and color to the entire card.

When choosing your papers for layering, keep in mind that you CAN mix patterns!  An easy rule of thumb for mixing patterns, is 1 large, 1 medium, and 1 tiny, then keep everything else in solid (or very subtle tone on tone) colors. Also, learn to color coordinate your papers - a prominent color in one of the papers, should be a secondary color in at least one of the other papers....and this should continue throughout all of the papers you use.  If you aren't comfortable with matching individual papers up this way, you can rely on the coordination of paper packs to do this for you.  Paper packs are full of carefully chosen papers, so that all the papers inside can be used together.

When beginning card making, I suggest that you start search for sketches for your first layout ideas.  Create a board on Pinterest, or a file folder on your computer and start finding sketches you like that you can use to make your cards.  Many challenge blogs are based on sketches,that the owner or design team provide, so look into your favorite challenges' archives for layout ideas.   Once you have some sketches saved up, take time to REALLY look at them and try to determine why they appeal to you.  As you get comfortable making cards, start doing some research into design elements, balance, and color theory.   You may be surprised at that point how easily you can recognize a "balanced" layout.  There's so much information on design, that it would be hard to share that with you in one post - not to mention, needlessly intimidating and confusing to a beginner - but understand that those elements make a HUGE difference in how your finished card looks.

I have to say, I'm a bit ashamed at how long it took me to realize the importance of matting layers.  It really makes a huge difference in how much a layer "pops" on a card, and the color of mat used can draw out a color from papers above and below it, or it can be a contrasting color that allows the layer to stand out from it's background.  

Let's mat a layer, just to see how it's done.  I've chosen to use a white mat, and some paper from one of my current favorite paper packs.

Since this will be the back layer on the 5.5" square base we just created above, I'm going to cut my white mat into a square 1/8 of an inch smaller in size than the 5.5" square.  The resulting mat will be a 5 3/8" square.   This will let a band of the black card base show around the white mat.

Then, I will cut my patterned paper 1/8 of an inch smaller than the mat I just cut - so, it will be cut into a 5  2/8"  square (or 5.25").  This will allow a band of white to surround the paper.  If you prefer a larger band of color, you can cut these at 3/16" or 1/4" increments.  You can also mat with multiple colors if you choose.  For instance, I could have chosen to mat with gray, then white, and finally add my patterned paper.

If I were to ink or distress my paper, I would do so at this point - prior to adhering the paper to the mat.  In most cases, when you are layering cut patterned paper over a colored mat, you will likely want to ink the edges of your paper.  This is due to the white center of the patterned paper showing along the cut edge - since most patterns are simply inked on top of white paper.  However, since I'm using a white mat and that cut edge will blend into it, I do not need to ink the edges of this paper.   I can move on to applying my glue.

As much as tape runners and ATGs quicken this process, I do recommend that you use a glue stick for your layering when you begin.   The reason I say that, is that a glue stick isn't an immediate permanent bond.  You have a small window of time after putting your pieces together, to make adjustments to their placement.

This allows time to carefully center the paper on the mat, hopefully creating an even band of color around the paper.

Once satisfied with the placement of the layers together, I've used the side of my bone folder to "burnish" the top paper (a brayer will also work).  This pushes the glue into all of the crevices and cracks of the mat and paper, and seals the bond.  This is a step that should also be taken when using a tape runner or ATG, to make sure the seal is completed.  (FYI: I had not known this when I started making cards, I used the side of my hand to smooth the top of the papers.  As it turned out, that was not enough direct pressure to create a tight seal between the papers, regardless of what tape runner or glue I had used.  Many of the cards I made, prior to learning this trick, wound up peeling apart with a bit of time - sometimes just a few weeks!)  Each time a layer is adhered, burnish the layers together and your cards will hold far longer than they would otherwise.

As you mat your papers, lay each piece together (unglued) as you plan to on your finished card.  This will give you a chance to see how your layout is progressing, and make any changes or fix any big issues/mistakes prior to everything being permanently attached.  

If you notice in the photo above, I chose to mat my second patterned paper with black cardstock, rather than white.  This is because I saw that I would be layering this - already very lightly colored - piece over the top of a white doily, and a white mat would have caused the layer to blend into the background.    And again, the background for my stamp was matted with black for the same reason.  

Also, and this is a personal preference, you will notice that while this particular layout is currently quite "traditional" in it's design (meaning, that the basic layers making up the layout are the same on each side.  The  right is a mirror of the left and the top is a mirror of the bottom), the "sentiment" is missing from this layout.  The reason for this is that I tend to use sentiments as part of the embellishment of most of my cards.  Many sketches that you find will include the sentiment in the design, however, when I'm designing my own layouts, I prefer the focus of my card to be on my image, and to have some flexibility in where I add the sentiment in conjunction with the other embellishments.  So, the initial design does not include the sentiment.  

Hopefully, those beginners who are reading this, are realizing that the basics of creating and layering a card are not that complicated, and can be quickly and easily done.  And, perhaps those who have made cards for some time, picked up a tip or two.  

Next week we will be discussing Digi Images: Finding, storing, and working with digital images.

For those just starting card making: Do you feel you "get" the basics a bit better?

For those who have been making cards for a while: What is your go-to card size?    

Cardmaking 101: Supplies

Did you miss a previous post in this series:
Introduction

Supplies: 

What you SHOULD have, 

and what you make do without (for now)

Oh boy, can card making get expensive!  I added up my "Wish list" at one point, and stopped adding when I got over $3000 (over a third of that was just markers!).  With card stock, paper, stamps, markers, inks, die cuts, embossing folders, trims, gems, flowers and other embellishments - it can add up QUICK!  And with so much inspiration (for our creations AND our wish lists) available to us with the click of a mouse, it can become quite hard to accept that card making can be done with only the most basic of materials.

Now, granted, the only things TRULY needed in order to begin creating cards are card stock, patterned paper, scissors, some glue, and some inspiration, however, most of us want a finished product that is a bit more elaborate than that result for our time and effort.  After all, choosing to make your own cards is as much about enjoying the process of creating, and being proud of the result, as it is about the card that we complete.   Which means we will require a few more supplies.

 I've tried to be budget conscience in listing the must-have items, while also listing the supplies that will allow you to explore multiple styles.  Though, I must state, supplies vary WILDLY from one card maker to another.  What one person considers an absolute MUST-HAVE item, another will feel very "eh" about.   If you are already aware of what style you will like create in (for example - you know you are a Clean and Simple type, or you know that you don't want to color images) your supplies can be adjusted to fit that style.  Also, just because I list an item as must-have, doesn't mean you really have to have it in order to BEGIN card making - again, you only NEED the barest of materials.  The "must-have" items are what I feel you should be investing in first - in order to make your cards as good as possible, as early as possible.  There's very few times I will recommend a particular brand - brand preference varies from person to person and brands that don't work for me (don't fit my hand, don't "flow" as  I use them) aren't necessarily bad products - they just don't trip my trigger.

To make this a bit easier, I've broken the list down into five more manageable categories, then broken down further into specific styles of item.  Also, some things may seem a bit odd, but in future posts you will start to see WHY they may be necessary.  Let's start!

Tools

Cutting:  Your cutting tools are likely going to become some of the most IMPORTANT items you have for card making - particularly in the early stages.  
Must-have, buy first: GOOD scissors for cutting paper - sharp with pointed ends that allow you to cut into small spaces; another pair of scissors for everything else; a craft knife with replaceable blades; a self healing cutting mat; and a paper trimmer with replaceable blades and marked increments for measuring, that will allow a sheet of 12 x 12 paper to pass through.  
What you'll eventually want: At least one more pair of straight edged scissors (Ideally, you want a pair SPECIFICALLY for paper, one for ribbon/trims, and one strong pair for everything else);  a paper piercer; a circle cutter that can handle a variety of sizes; and possibly a variety of decorative edge scissors.

Die cutting/Embossing/Punches: Anytime you can use a tool over and over again to add interest, depth, and embellishment to your card - you save yourself money in the long run!  
Must-have, buy first:  a regular hole punch, a corner rounder, and a paper edge punch in a style you like.  
What you'll eventually want: EVERYTHING!  There are so many dies and embossing folders and punches out there.  When you choose to get your die cutting machine (Sissix, Cuttlebug, Creatopia, etc.), try and get one with some flexibility.  I do recommend that you put a little research into finding the type of machine(s) that fits your needs - however, some machines offer more options than others.  Invest wisely and DO consider your machine an investment.  It can be your crafty companion for some time!  Also, as you build your collection of punches and dies, try to get a variety of what YOU will use. If you plan on buying a lot of premade flowers, you probably won't need a lot of flower punches, if you prefer a clean and simple style, you won't need a lot of the frilly swirls and vines that you might otherwise choose.


Coloring:  Colored images add a great visual focus to your cards.  This is also the category of tools that can get expensive very quickly.  However, with more and more artists offering precolored images - either with the line drawing or separately - and the wide variety of vintage images  available relatively inexpensively (even free!), this is also a category that can be "neglected" for a bit, without sacrificing any quality in your finished card. 
Must-have, buy first: Coloring pencils in a lot of colors - giant cheap sets even - and a sharpener.  Seriously.  That's all you need to START coloring.  Learn the art of coloring - how to create shadows and dimension, how light falls, how to blend (and, yes, with a soft touch you can blend pencil colors together much like you do when coloring with alcohol markers - without added blending solution).  
What you'll eventually want:  COPICS!  Lots' of Copics!  But, quite frankly, ANY alcohol markers will work, and work together.  I currently have a mix of Copics, Prismacolors, and Bic Mark It markers that I use along with my colored pencils.  I have not used Spectrum Noir, or Promarkers, but they work as well.  It all depends on what you have available to you and how much you want to spend.

Adhesive: Don't scrimp on adhesives.  You want your card held together, not only until it reaches it's recipient, but for them to treasure afterwards.  
Must-have, buy first: Glue sticks, strong wet glue (Tacky glue or other strong craft glue), hot glue gun and hot glue sticks.  
What you'll eventually want: Foam dots or tape, an ATG (automatic tape gun - a small tape runner works as well - though depending on how many cards you make, and how much layering you add, you could be going through lots of refills) and refills, clear tape, Glossy accents, E6000, staplers, washi tape, and red line or terrifically tacky tape.

Other Tools: There are far more tools out there, than will fit into neat little categories. 
Must-have, buy first: Bone folder, Nail file or bit of sandpaper, heat tool.
What you'll eventually want: Embossing tool; Distressing tool; Brayer; Score board; Sewing needle and thread; craft mat; paper piercing template. 




Paper

Cardstock: The workhorse of card making, cardstock can make your card bases, tags, frames, flowers, frills, etc.
Must-have, buy first: a pack of white card stock, colored card stock in colors coordinated with the papers you will use.  
What you'll eventually want:  A rainbow of colors of card stock in both smooth and textured finishes.  Possibly also a variety of sizes, depending on the size of card you choose to create.  (More on card bases in next week's post)

Patterned Paper: There are hundreds of paper companies out there making thousands of gorgeous papers - it can be hard to choose just a few to begin with!  
Must-have, buy first: a few sheets of patterned scrapbook paper.  
What you'll eventually want:  Every paper pack ever made!  Seriously, though, in terms of card making, Smaller sized (as in height and width - not number of pages!) paper packs are your friend.  The patterns are generally the same as the 12x12 papers, but smaller scale - more suited to card making.

Vellum/Specialty Papers:  This is not a "must-have" category, but there are numerous transparent, handmade, foiled, and glittery papers out there that can add an amazing pop of interest to your finished card.  These papers can get a little pricey, and can sometimes become simply one more thing you spent money on so you could store it - as it can be tough to cut into something really "special".   (Somehow crafters tend to become sentimentally attached to certain items in our stash!  When it happens to you, know that it's NORMAL!)



Images/Sentiments/Stamps

A section on digital images/ digistamps will be coming on 5/29.  However, to begin with there are literally hundreds of artists out there who draw and give away their images. As well as those who seek out copyright free and royalty free images for your personal use.  You can collect a wide variety of images and sentiments in a very short amount of time.  I would also suggest looking at free font sites, and learning how to install the fonts.  Being able to print simple sentiments on your own will be a huge lifesaver!   Be sure to pay attention to copyrights as you are collecting images and fonts.  While most are fine for personal use, if you are planning on selling your cards, you will want to be certain that the copyright allows that. 

You will need to be able to print your digital images/sentiments.  As far as stamps go, You will want to have at least one set of alpha stamps to begin (check the dollar bins at your craft store, or local department store).   Beyond that, you can build your rubber/clear stamp collection as you find what you like and have money in your budget.  Many people prefer rubber or clear stamps over digital, and there are some gorgeous image stamps out there for coloring.  Please be sure that you are buying your stamps from reputable companies, and check the copyrights for the stamps as well before sharing a [uncolored] stamped image.




Inks

Must-have, buy first:  There are only 3 inks that I would say are must-haves to begin with: a permanent black ink like StayzOn or Versafine, and Distress Inks in Black Soot and Vintage Photo.  Also, makeup wedges work great as ink blenders at this point.  
What you'll eventually want: A rainbow of colors of Distress Inks and permanent inks, ink blending tools to go with the colors, and clear embossing ink.  Also you may eventually want to invest in alcohol inks, spray inks, chalk edgers and more.  




Embellishments

For the most part, with embellishments, the "what you are eventually going to want" is really going to depend on your style, color preferences, and item availability (for instance, if you prefer to purchase items in person, rather than online, you are limited to what you can find at your local stores).  Beyond those limitations, the world is your oyster, because there are SO many options out there.  I've tried to cover most of the basics, but, again, personal preferences, style, and budget will change what you feel you need to have at any given point.  

Ribbons and trims: Must-have, buy first:  White Lace (about 1 1/2' or wider - if you are unsure if you will use much lace, you will likely save some money by buying a yard or two rather than a whole roll), ribbon that coordinates to your chosen paper (the dollar stores usually carry a selection of ribbon, or you can buy small rolls or by the yard), pearl trim, and Jute twine.  Eventually, you will want to invest in a variety of laces in white, cream, and black (possibly other colors as well - or you can learn how to dye your own); satin, grosgrain and sheer ribbons in colors to coordinate with your papers; ric-rac trim in a variety of colors; and a variety of fibers.  Also cheesecloth and tulle are great ways to add some softness to your cards.

Buttons, gems, and more: I would suggest starting with a small variety pack of buttons that include black, brown, clear, white, and gold tones; self adhesive pearls in white and cream -about 5mm is a good starting size ; self adhesive clear gems in the same size; a variety pack of brads in neutral tones and a pack in a variety of colors. After a while, you may decide to start investing in gem swirls, additional sizes/colors of gems, more buttons, more brads, decorative brads, etc.

Flowers: To start, I would suggest buying a few of the "budget" packs of flat paper/silk flowers. If you decide that flowers are your thing, and you like filling your cards with flowers, then there are numerous tutorials out there to teach you how to make your own flowers, or you can purchase whatever types and colors of flowers that strike your fancy!

Other: Glitter glues, embossing powders, metals, resins, chipboard....the embellishments available once you get going are limited only by your imagination!  

Getting Supplies: 

Obviously, if you are really wanting to invest in your card making, there are a lot of supplies that can blow your budget fairly easily.  I would suggest that, until you have made at least a few cards, and are certain that you want to invest your money into this hobby, that you try to keep any expenses to a minimum - and that really does include investment into must-have items.  Once you know that making cards is something you want to pursue, you can begin investing in your "stash" of products and tools to use on your cards.    

Once you are in for the long haul, be sure to actually INVEST in your tools.  It is better to pay for quality, than pay for something that you're going to have to replace several times before buying the quality piece anyway.    Be aware of discounts or coupons available to you, PARTICULARLY for these purchases.  Read the fine print in the coupons as well - it may exclude a particular brand or model.  Michael's and Hobby Lobby both offer 40% off coupons - which can turn the purchase of a higher priced tool into a real bargain!  

Also, it is tempting to be swayed early on by the myriad of beautiful paper packs and gorgeous flowers - but remember that if you blow your budget on these one-time-use items, you're not leaving room for the tools that will turn those items into amazing cards.  Make sure you have the ability to cut that gorgeous flecked paper, and put a straight fold into that beautiful cardstock, and adhere the whole thing together!  

Be creative and flexible in where you look for craft items.  I've found AMAZING items at thrift stores, dollar stores, and even the local farm supply store.  Craigslist also has an "Arts and Crafts" section where people are often found selling portions of their stash in lots.  Check stores that you wouldn't think of as "craft" stores: my current favorite paper pack has twice the sheets of a "normal" paper pack from the craft store, for half the cost, at WalMart.  

Most larger craft stores have "sale" items each week.  Pay attention to the sales rotation, and you may very rarely pay "full price" for your card supplies!  Even look at what would otherwise be "trash".  The envelopes that are in with the bills that you pay online, make great pockets for tags or inserts on cards.   The empty cereal boxes are "free" chipboard!  That box, that is far to ripped to reuse for shipping, has a wonderful corrugated texture inside of it that can become a background AND dimension to your card.   

Also, be aware of services that your local craft/scrapbook stores offer for free or a greatly reduced price with a purchase.  They may have punches, die cuts (and the machine!), and other tools available for your use in-store that can help reduce your immediate out-of-pocket costs for these higher price items.  And, especially with smaller craft and scrapbook stores, get friendly with the staff!  They are the ones that can set aside one of those hot new paper packs that EVERYONE wants - just for you.  And they may let you know of upcoming sales or "special" discounts to help you save money!  They can also be founts of knowledge when you are stuck on a project, or looking for something new and exciting to add to your cards.  

Don't forget that blog candies and trades are also out there if you seek them out.   Also, entering challenges gives you a chance to build your digi stash (sometimes other types of companies sponsor challenges as well!) as well as introduce you to new digi artists.  

*    *    *    *    *

Whew!  That's a lot of stuff!  No wonder my craft room is bursting at the seams!   I know that this particular post can make starting into card making seem daunting - and quite expensive - but please realize that a good portion of the supplies, even the must-have items, can be purchased over a period of time while still creating cards!  Also, don't forget that a creative mind can find a way to make things work without the specific tool you would otherwise think you needed.  I used my rolling pin for some time, in order to get use out of  embossing folders that I had PRIOR to purchasing my Creatopia.  And I still keep a butter knife in my craft room because it has so many atypical uses (distressing, burnishing, pallet knife, an extra "bone" folder)!

Next week we will be discussing Card Basics: Making, layering, and laying out your card.  See you then!

For those just starting card making: What do you think will be your first "investment" into your supply stash?

For those who have been making cards for a while: Did I miss anything you feel is a "must have" item?  And/or tell us about the craziest "tool" you've used in card making that wasn't intended for crafting.